Trashigang Tshechu – A 300-year-old religious legacy in the remote eastern corner of Bhutan

Trashigang also known as ‘Jewel of the East’ is the largest district of Bhutan, spread over an area of 2204 square kilometres and sharing borders with eastern & south-eastern towns of Mongar, Trashiyangtse, Samdrup Jongkhar, Pemagatshel and Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh, in the east. The Dangmechu, one of the largest rivers in the country passes through the Trashigang district. 

Trashigang Dzong built in 1659, sitting majestically on a high ridge overlooking the Dangmechhu and Gamri Chhu rivers annually hosts the three-day Tshechu (festival) at Trashigang Dzong. Presently the Dzong (fortress-monastery) is also used as the seat for Rabdey (monastic wing of dzong serving as monastery, with resident monk body) and administration of Trashigang district.

The annual Trashigang Tshechu was initiated more than 300 years ago by the Third Druk Desi (ruler or chieftain of a polity or region), Chogyal Minju Tenpa. During Tshechu (festival), the variety of dances performed by monks as well as laymen wearing ornate costumes and masks and these dances are purely defined in religious content. It is believed that one gains merit by attending the religious festival.

‘The Bakcham’ is a unique and most sacred mask dance performed for almost three hours during Trashigang Tshechu. The dance represents the once fierce demons who wreaked havoc and created disorder among the people, finally brought under control and made the protectors of the land by the spiritual masters. The masks and costumes of the deities are taken out only once a year which is why it is a rare and sacred opportunity for the public to witness the cham (mask dance).

The Trashigang Tshechu ends with unfurling of Thongdroel, for public veneration. The Thongdroel is brocade painted or embroidered with religious figures and its is believed that just a glimpse of Thongdroel cleanse the viewer of all sin. Apart from religious significance, Trashigang Tshechu is also an important occasion for socialising and locals decked out in their finest, throng the courtyard of the dzong to attend this important event and attain merit.